Eat your way across the South: The restaurants of southern Alabama serve a variety of delicious foods

Published 8:00 am Saturday, December 1, 2018

The South is known for unique dishes and creative people who turn simple ingredients into culinary masterpieces. On a recent trip to Alabama, I set out to find great places to dine in each city I visited. I wasn’t disappointed.

From the sparkling white sands of Orange Beach and Gulf Shores to the vibrant Mobile Bay area, Alabama has something to offer even the most discerning foodie.

Gulf Shores, Orange Beach

A popular playground for locals and tourists, the Gulf Shores and Orange Beach area has outstanding restaurants. Lulu’s is a family-friendly place with an extensive menu. You can dine outside and watch boats breeze by in the channel.

Its Bama Breeze Bar serves distinctly Southern drinks adults can enjoy while the kiddos play in the sand “beach” inside. Lulu’s is owned by legendary musician/songwriter Jimmy Buffet’s sister, Lucy, so music is a staple every night.

At The Hangout, which is on the beach, I ate the biggest hamburger of my life. The Hang 10 Burger was as delicious as it was tall. The Hangout also is known for lobster corn dogs and seafood towers filled with steamed shrimp and Gulf oysters.

Cobalt the Restaurant offers a more refined evening experience. With huge windows and open-dining areas, it was the perfect spot to enjoy the sunset over the waters of Perdido Pass.

I enjoyed pistachio-wasabi-encrusted tuna and lobster rigatoni. The stone hearth pizzas are something less fussy for the kids to eat.

The desserts also are outstanding. The mile-high chocolate cake was my favorite.

Voyager’s at Perdido Beach Resort has white tablecloths, spectacular views of the beach and Gulf and an extensive wine list. The chefs create magic with hand-cut aged steaks, fresh seafood accented with citrus and spice, and local farm-fresh produce.

My steak was so tender I cut it with my fork. The shrimp were perfectly balanced and cooked to perfection. 

Mobile Bay 

At Dauphin’s atop the RSA Trustmark Building in downtown Mobile, I had an unforgettable dining experience while taking in gorgeous views.

Its Gulf Coast staples include grilled oysters and shrimp along with creole- and soul-inspired dishes. 

Also in downtown Mobile is the The Battle House Renaissance Mobile Hotel & Spa. This legendary giant recently was restored. Built in 1851 on the site of an old military headquarters, it burned down in 1905. It was rebuilt in 1908 and serves as the center of the social scene in Mobile.

Inside the hotel is The Trellis Room. I had breakfast there and enjoyed the ambiance. The architecture of the restaurant and hotel is an experience in itself. I lingered in the domed lobby and took time to enjoy the lavish appointments.

At the other end of the dining spectrum is Wintzell’s Oyster House. It is a loud, raucous place with informal seating and plenty of hands-on food selections.

At Wintzell’s, a Mobile landmark since 1938, oysters — served “fried, stewed or nude” — are mouthwatering. It also is famous for fresh and tasty shrimp boils.

Another Mobile institution that is a little loud and has great food is Callaghan’s Irish Social Club in the Oakleigh Garden District. Open since 1946, Callaghan’s has been named the best bar in America by Esquire Magazine and best bar in the South by Southern Living. 

The club’s bacon cheeseburger is listed as one of the “100 things to eat in Alabama before you die.” 

Eugene’s Monkey Bar is a place with an eclectic atmosphere. Established in honor of Mobile’s Renaissance man, Eugene Walter, who was a friend of Truman Capote and Tallulah Bankhead, it has a distinctly unique décor.

Its specialties include shrimp and grits, cast-iron chicken and crawfish beignets. The bar’s signature cocktails are worth sipping. I had the Jubilee, which is made with cucumber vodka, mint and pineapple juice.

I found true ‘Bama barbecue at Moe’s Original BBQ joint. A cavernous place with picnic tables, wooden chairs and benches, Moe’s serves some of the best fruit-wood-smoked meats in the South.

The three ‘Bama boys who started the joint contributed their family’s side dishes and desserts that round out the soul-food-inspired menu. 

Chicken salad is one of the most popular items at The Spot of Tea in downtown Mobile. The tea is served in both antique and newer teapots, cups and saucers, making each serving an individual experience.

Before I left the Causeway area, I visited Bluegill, a dining mecca for 60 years. The mishmash of dining areas, strings of lights, music and good food created an atmosphere I won’t soon forget. Everything on the menu is good.

To experience a quieter side of the Mobile Bay, I headed to Dauphin Island, home of Dority’s Bar and Grill. I found a shady spot in the backyard to sit, relax and enjoy the outdoors.

Its grilled shrimp is the best I’ve ever put in my mouth. This small island community at southernmost point of Alabama feels worlds away from everything.

Birmingham

Some of my favorite places to visit on trips have been featured in big-screen stories. There was one place in Birmingham I couldn’t miss — The Irondale Café.

Started in the 1930s by author Fannie Flagg’s Aunt Bess, the little café near the railroad tracks was the inspiration and restaurant used in “Fried Green Tomatoes,” the movie based on Flagg’s famous book. 

Aunt Bess ran the café for more than 50 years before selling it. Meals are served cafeteria style. The fried green tomatoes, fresh yeast rolls and fried chicken made me feel right at home. It’s not fancy, but it’s good home cooking.

The Highlands Bar and Grill is where famed chef Frank Stitts creates culinary delights. The night I was there, Stitts had just returned from the James Beard Foundation’s Awards ceremony in New York City. The Highlands Bar and Grill was named Outstanding Restaurant, and Dolester Miles, its pastry chef, was named most outstanding pastry chef in America.

The place was abuzz with excitement. Stitts was receiving much-deserved congratulations.  

I enjoyed a sweet pea crostini with smoked salmon, mint and cheese, grilled duck breasts on grits, and fresh spinach with blueberry gastrique. For dessert I had blueberry cobbler with buttermilk ice cream and coconut cake with pecan genoise, coconut curd and Chantilly cream.

Since 1907, The Bright Star, in Bessemer, just 15 minutes from Birmingham, has served Greek-style dishes. Named an American classic by the James Beard Foundation, The Bright Star has a loyal following.

I received a tour from the oldest family member, Jimmy Koikos. At 89, he was so quick on his feet that I had trouble keeping up with him and his witty remarks. On most nights, he’s making sure everyone enjoys their meal.

I had the snapper-and-steak combo, seafood gumbo and delectable cheesecake baklava.

The restored original murals on the walls also are worth a look. It took more than two years to uncover the colorful landscapes painted over 100 years ago by itinerant European artists.

I ate brunch at The Piztiz Food Hall in downtown Birmingham. The food hall houses an exciting collection of small restaurants and an outdoor courtyard. From the Alabama Biscuit in the food hall I had fluffy Southern-style biscuits and good hot coffee.

Trattoria Centrale and Urban Standard, both also located downtown, offer delicious baked goods. The pastries at Urban Standard satisfied my sweet tooth. The omelets at Trattoria Centrale are made with locally sourced eggs and the lattes are made with locally sourced milk.

Located on First Avenue North is Lunch-Rib-It-Up. The barbecue restaurant serves soul food with a dash of originality. The menu includes turnip greens, fried okra, BBQ ribs, fried green tomatoes and peach cobbler.

I had the cracklin’ muffins as a special treat.