Greg Grant

My oldest brother, Doice, used to gag and refuse to eat green beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) as a child. I’ll be the first to admit, those mushy things out of a can weren’t my favorite either. Imagine my surprise when I started growing them myself and found out how much better fresh veggies were than canned ones. To this day I hardly eat canned vegetables. Why would you when you can grow much better yourself?

Green beans require warms soils to germinate and should be planted after all danger of frost in the spring (April). Planting too soon while the soils are cold will result in poor germination and stunted plants. However if you wait too long, you will most likely have to deal with warm temperatures and limited bean set. A fall crop of green beans can be planted in August. Just remember that green beans form best when the temperatures are in the 70s. After the seedlings establish themselves and have their first true leaves, thin the plants to 3 to 4 inches apart.

Green beans require at least 8 hours of direct sun each day. They aren’t picky about soil types but should be planted in areas that drain well. It is ideal to till several inches of compost or organic matter into the soil if possible and incorporate 2 pounds of a complete lawn fertilizer (15-5-10, 18-6-12, etc.) per 100 square feet of bed or every 35 feet of row. The ideal soil pH for growing green beans is 6.0-7.5, so liming is probably in order here.

Green beans are direct seeded into the garden. Create a raised row about 6 inches high and 8 to 12 inches wide. Multiple rows should be around 36 inches apart. Open a shallow trench 1-2 inches deep with the corner of a hoe or a stick. Drop the seed several inches apart to insure a good stand. Cover lightly with loose soil using a hoe or garden rake. Make sure the seed isn’t too deep or it won’t germinate.

Check the progress of your green bean plants when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. If they are vigorous and healthy, you don’t need to do a thing. If they are pale green and not vigorous, you will need to apply a high nitrogen fertilizer to stimulate their growth. Use 1 cup of ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) for every 35 feet of row. Sprinkle half of the fertilizer down each side of the row. Lightly work it into the soil and then water. This extra fertilizer application to boost the plants along is known as “side dressing.” Green beans are relatively pest free. However, watch for aphids, stinkbugs, spider mites and rust, and treat with a labeled pesticide.

Greens beans are generally ready to harvest about 56 days from seeding. They should be harvested when the pods are young and tender, 3 to 5 inches long, and before the seeds inside begin to bulge. It’s better to pick them too small than too large. Harvest them at least every other day so the pods don’t become tough and stringy.

Recommended varieties for Texas include Blue Lake (round), Contender (round), Derby (round), Tendergreen (round), Topcrop (round), Blue Lake-Pole (round), Jade-Pole (round), Kentucky Wonder-Pole (round), Greencrop (flat), Roma II (flat), and Purple Podded Pole (flat). Green beans are native to Central America.

Greg Grant is the Smith County hrticulturist for the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service and author of “Texas Fruit and Vegetable Gardening.” You can read his “Greg’s Ramblings” blog at arborgate.com, follow him on Facebook at “Greg Grant Gardens” or read his “In Greg’s Garden” in each issue of Texas Gardener magazine (texasgardener.com). More research-based gardening information from the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service can be found at aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu.