Martin Dies Jr. State Park offers rich wildlife, trails system

Published 3:00 am Saturday, March 6, 2021

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As soon as the glob of swamp mud dropped squarely on my head, visions of a possible disaster came to mind. Luckily I was wearing a baseball cap and felt no need to stop struggling to move my stuck kayak through the murky water.

My campsite is just a few yards from this lily and cypress tree crowded bayou, and it seemed a reasonable idea to slide into the water near my camper’s backdoor. Driving a few miles to a dock seemed ridiculous, but now I am beginning to wonder.



With one more grunt induced push with my paddle, the mud releases its grip and I slide silently through hanging moss toward a graceful egret watching me intently. I dip my cap into the water returning the mud to the catfish as the egret gives me the “crazy tourist” look.

We are both at the northern edge of the Big Thicket National Preserve at Martin Dies Jr. State Park where two rivers meet forming one of the best paddling parks in Texas. The Neches and Angelina rivers create a wild and diverse habitat uninterrupted by development making paddling a wildlife frenzy float. This is my third trip to this park. I always go in October to catch the golden cypress trees at their peak during their autumn recital.

Lake Steinhagen anchors the recreational area where three paddling trails meander around and through the park. Estimated time to complete each trail ranges from one to three hours long; however, the paddle time really depends on how many photo breaks are taken or slowing down to admire the beauty of the scene.

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During one trip a few years ago, a large group of us packed lunches and stopped in the middle of a small inlet, tied our kayaks and canoes to a tree, and never stepped on land as we passed around food, drinks and chocolate treats meant for Halloween. Kayaks and canoes can be rented at the park in normal circumstances. Boat launches are available at various locations throughout the park.

Hiking & Biking Trails

With more than seven miles of land trails, the park is an impressive discovery between exploring water paths. The Island Trail is the easiest and shortest, circling one of the islands for picturesque vistas of the lake. The Slough Trail has 16 bridges over streams formed from a swollen lake after a rain, all made of natural materials and a popular selfie setting.

The Forest and Wildlife trails take you deep into a leaf wonderland. Southern magnolia trees are extremely large in the park, many so old they are twisted and hollow but hang on to life with all their strength. Many trees lean seeking sunlight in this dense diverse forest. The mixed forest of loblolly, longleaf and shortleaf pines, oaks, evergreens, maples and sweet gum trees mingle with shorter under story plants such as wax myrtles, yaupon holly and beautyberry bushes, resulting in a visually pleasing walk through a textured landscape.

Wildlife

Abundant in this forest infused wetland, wildlife include deer, raccoons, opossums, armadillos and the rarely seen bobcat. The nine-banded armadillo is native to South America but today ranges as far north as Kansas. This designated Texas State Small Mammal is skilled at digging for grubs and creates deep burrows for the birth of their young. Armadillos always have identical quadruplets. All will be the same sex because they share the same placenta in the womb.

The Virginia Opossum is the oldest and most primitive mammal of the New World, often referred to as “living fossils” because they have survived relatively unchanged for 50 million years. Only this species lives in Texas, but is rarely spotted since they are nocturnal and solitary creatures. They’re not picky about their diet and eat plants or small animals, such as rats, and are considered a bonus if found in cities. The young are the size of bumblebees when born and carried in their mother’s pouch for about seven weeks, much like kangaroos.

Bobcats in Texas are medium-sized, reddish brown or grayish in color and are found in all parts of the state. Small tufts at the tip of their ears give them a fashion sense, complementing long fur on the sides of their head. They have short tails, long legs, perfect for sprinting over a forest floor and large feet for climbing up rocky canyon walls. These reclusive wild cats are mainly active at night or early sundown when they hunt. They choose dense thickets for den sites.

The American alligator lives in all bodies of water in the park and often stretch out along the banks warming their bodies. If their mouth is open, they are cooling themselves because alligators do not pant or sweat. Alligators can swim up to 35 mph in water but only move 20 mph on land. Outrunning an alligator is not difficult, but if they catch you their jaw strength is 2,125 pounds per square inch, enough to bite through steel. Their hunting tactics include never letting go and dragging their victim to the bottom of the river to drown. The good news — it has never happened in the park, but I don’t want to be the first so I keep a steady scan for floating eyes watching me.

Many species of snakes live in the park, but most are non-venomous. Turtles, salamanders and frogs of all kinds thrive in this watery world and are often found sunbathing on logs or lily leaves. Fourteen different bat species make Martin Dies their home, helping to reduce the mosquito population.

I come for the birds. At every kayak turn there are shore birds such as herons, egrets and anhingas. Along forest trails the superstars include the amazing pileated woodpecker and bald eagles.

One of the most interesting creatures, a small insect called a mayfly, only appears in May. They breed underwater but hatch on the surface, swarming in a frenzy to feed. They can be a little annoying but do not bite. Their existence proves that the water is clean and healthy, which is so important to the survival of many animals. Mayflies are at the bottom of the food chain and feasted upon by many animals. Watching birds fly through the air catching these busy little mayflies in mid-flight is an amazing sight. Search for certain trees the flies prefer to roost on and watch other animals gravitate to the tree for a tasty snack. The squirrels are the most hilarious as they try to catch as many flies as possible and shove them quickly in their mouth before they escape.

Other activities in the park include swimming, stargazing, volleyball and fishing. Perfect for a weekend getaway, a family concerned about social distancing in this pandemic era of our lives can share a journey through history, a quiet woods and a floating zoo bursting with life.

The 1,300-acre park is divided into two sections, separated by an inland waterway. The Walnut Ridge Unit and the Hen House Ridge Unit have campsites ranging from tent camping with only water provided to large RV sites complete with 50 amp electricity. Fishing is allowed along several small fishing piers and along the banks of campgrounds. More information can be found at www.tpwd.texas.gov.

The park is named after former Sen. Martin Dies Jr., who also served as the Texas Secretary of State. In the 1970s he served as chief justice of the Ninth Court of Appeals. Throughout his career, he worked to improve the Texas park system. Growing up in Jasper, the nearest town to the park, he spent much time exploring the area.

Archeological finds prove that Caddo natives lived in the area for several thousands of years. Mainly farmers raising corn, squash, beans and tobacco, the river habitat was crucial to supplementing their diet with berries, fish, fowl and small mammals. The Caddos were forced out of Texas into Oklahoma during early settlement expansion.

Nuisance alligators are almost always created by park visitors. Here are some alligator safety tips for your visit:

  • Do not feed or harass alligators, even with fish bait. To do so is a violation of state park rules and a Class C misdemeanor that carries up to a $500 fine.
  • Keep 30 feet or more away from alligators at all times, even in a kayak. If an alligator hisses, it’s a warning that you are too close.
  • A female protecting her nest may charge at you, but will quickly return to the nest after you leave.
  • Pets are considered prey and should never get close to or be allowed to harass an alligator.
  • Do not attempt to move an alligator if you think it is hurt or injured. Call a park employee.