An area where mondograss thinned in the Sperry landscape. See newly planted clumps lower right.

Dear Neil: I have a bed of red spider lilies that are currently full of leaves. Would it be alright to divide them now? If not, when is the best time?

They are growing actively now through early spring. To dig them at this time would set them back a good bit. Unless you have no other choice, wait until their tops die to the ground in late spring to dig and move them. Better yet, do so in the summer, perhaps even late July or early August. That’s the time that the bulbs start growing for their fall blooms and then their next crop of leaves. As you’ve probably discovered, they do best in a spot with morning sun and shade in the afternoon where they can receive good drainage but a ready supply of moisture while they’re growing. Most importantly, leave them undisturbed for many years if possible. They are one perennial that doesn’t need to be dug and divided frequently.

Dear Neil: Our neighbor’s trumpet vine has made its way into our yard. It has invaded shrubs and beds. We have found it impossible to dig up. We try to keep it cut off at ground line, but it continues to spread. What can we do?

Perhaps your neighbor is having the same chaos, and maybe the two of you could team up to eliminate the “mother” plant that is giving rise to all the root sprouts. Cut the main plant off at ground line, drill holes 1/4-inch wide and 1 inch deep into the stump and use an eyedropper to fill each of the holes with a broadleafed weedkiller (containing 2,4-D) at full strength. It will soak into the stump, and it will be carried out to all the roots. It should stop them from growing. Any that do continue to grow can easily enough be controlled by mowing and occasionally by hand-digging the worst of them. If your neighbors are not interested in doing this, your only recourse would be to dig a trench 15 or 18 inches deep and install a heavy vinyl pond liner barrier to stop the roots at the property line. You would still have to cope with all the sprouts, but they would gradually fade away.

Dear Neil: How can I get rid of ants? I’ve tried vinegar, hot water, and corn meal, but they keep coming back. What can I do?

I’m not the advocate for those remedies. I’ve had way too many reports that sound just like yours. Please let a Texas Master Certified Nursery Professional help you choose the best legally labeled insecticide. There are many fine products that will control ant populations effectively and efficiently. To some degree, it will depend on the type of ants involved, particularly if they’re fire ants.

Dear Neil: I planted a 10-foot-tall Mexican sycamore in early July. I watered it well in July, but I may have let it get too dry at some point in August. It lost lots of leaves, so I resumed my watering three times per week. Do you think it will recover, or do you think that I’ve lost it?

Only time can tell. Newly planted trees are especially vulnerable. As hard as it’s going to be, you’re just going to have to wait for spring to see how vigorous it is in producing new growth. Sit tight and watch for now, and for sure keep it moist during winter dry spells.

Dear Neil: A friend has 15 or 20 large patio pots with some kind of good potting soil left over from last summer. Can I use that in my vegetable garden? She is planning on starting with new soil the next time she plants in them.

That would be wonderful soil for your garden. In fact, offer to buy her a nice plant in return for it, as it represents a valuable asset for you. Maybe she’ll do this every year or two, as that’s about how long potting soil will be at peak performance in a container. However, its usefulness in your garden will be years longer.

Dear Neil: I have a sprinkler system, but I still get areas of mondograss and even hollies that seem like they are dying out from drought. I try to keep it all working properly, but there still seem to be dry spots. What more can I be doing?

What you’re describing is very typical of sprinkler systems, especially during periods of extreme drought. Nothing waters as well as a deep, soaking rain. Watch your sprinklers as they run to be sure they are making uniform coverage of all parts of the beds, especially when pressures are low. Check heads for alignment and to be sure they’re all clean and spraying properly. Check the moisture levels after the system runs next spring and summer and increase the irrigation time as needed. Replant in the voids at any time.

Dear Neil: A friend has given me a buckeye tree that is about 3 feet tall. When can I dig it and transplant it? Also, I have planted several buckeyes from seed. They sprouted and grew this past year. When can I take them out of their pots and plant them?

Dig established plants while they are dormant. That means that winter is the best time. Always keep as much soil as you can intact around their roots and water them deeply after you replant them. As for plants that are growing in pots, they can be planted at any time of the year. The only special challenges to small trees set out in winter would be that you could step on them since they’d be so hard to see without leaves. Be very attentive to their water needs their first summer since their root systems won’t be very deep yet at that point. Finally, buckeyes can offer challenges in Texas landscapes. Most do best with protection from the afternoon sun.