United States of Pizza: How we eat (and enjoy!) pizza, coast to coast
Published 4:30 pm Tuesday, February 8, 2022
- Spago pizza
There’s a pizza topping and style for every palate — and America’s spending habits reflect our country’s intense passion for pizza. According to a report from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Americans eat 350 slices of pizza every second, which equals 23 pounds of pizza annually for each person. Currently, there are more than 78,000 pizzerias in the U.S, which is roughly 17% of all restaurants in America, and many pizzerias have their own interpretation of the classic dish.
What’s the best version? For some, it’s whatever version you grew up with. Food writer Sam Sifton calls it the “pizza cognition theory,” where the first slice of pizza that a person eats is the standard for how all pizza should taste thereafter.
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However you eat pizza, all that matters is that you love it, and with such a diverse variety of pies to choose from in America, happiness (and good flavor) is never more than a slice away.
New York
When people think of pizza, the image that comes to mind best resembles a classic New York slice. Italian immigrants who came to New York City in the 19th and 20th centuries left an indelible impression in many ways, but one of the most notable might be the ubiquitous pizzeria found on most city blocks throughout the five boroughs. While there were pizza-adjacent items in New York once Italian immigrants took root in the city, New York City pizza as we know it today emerged in 1905 at Lombardi’s restaurant and became a real cultural touchstone around World War II. New York-style pizza falls under the category of Neapolitan pizza, with the exception of sauce; New York pizza typically features a cooked (not fresh) sauce that includes spices and herbs (primarily, oregano, basil and crushed red pepper). Where to try it: Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop, Brooklyn, NY
New Haven, Connecticut
Much like New York’s Neapolitan origins, New Haven’s is also Neapolitan in nature. The crust is chewy and slowly fermented, and the sauce often features fresh crushed tomatoes. One major difference between New Haven and New York styles is how New Haven pizzerias heavily rely on coal ovens (rather than gas or electric) and are cooked on stone, lending a heavy char to the bottom of the crust. New Haven’s proximity to the ocean makes the regional pizza style nearly synonymous with white clam pizza, which features no tomatoes and a limited amount of cheese. How it’s served is as much a part of the New Haven pizza experience as the pizza itself: The pizza is slid onto sheets of waxed paper and delivered to your table on rimmed stainless steel baking trays. Where to try it: Frank Pepe’s, New Haven, CT
Chicago, Illinois
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Is Chicago-style deep dish pizza actually pizza? Pizzeria Uno, now a national chain and staple in malls and shopping plazas, is credited with developing and popularizing this style of pizza. Deep dish pizza borders on a casserole and is baked in a metal pan resembling something you might use to bake a cake. The dough is pressed into the bottom and sides of a well-oiled baking pan, and generously layered with sauce, cheese and toppings. A long bake allows for the layers to meld together into one cohesive boule of molten delight — just long enough for the sugars in the dough to caramelize and crisp up. Where to try it: Gino’s East, Chicago, IL
Old Forge, Pennsylvania
In an old mining town in northeastern Pennsylvania, the self-proclaimed “pizza capital of the world” sits like a sleeper stop on the grand pilgrimage of pizza. Old Forge pizza has developed a reputation for unique pizza, based on the Sicilian pies popular in New York’s Italian communities and brought to Pennsylvania when Italian immigrants moved west. The pizza comes in two versions: red and white, and both tend to be heavy on onions and sold in “trays” (a full rectangular pie which is served into “cuts”). Where to try it: Mary Lou’s Pizza, Old Forge, PA
Detroit, Michigan
To make Detroit’s beloved pies, thick, focaccia-style Sicilian dough is pressed into a rectangular pan (locals call it a “square”). The origins of the pan reportedly come from the steel pans that machinists in automotive factories used to keep track of their parts and tools. The pizza is then layered with sauce, cheese and toppings, but a “red top” pie is made in reverse, starting with toppings and ending with sauce. The cheese is not the typical mozzarella; instead, Motor City pizza is made with Wisconsin-sourced “brick” cheese, similar to a mild Cheddar, with a high fat content which seeps into the pan and creates a lacy crust on the dough. Where to try it: Buddy’s Pizza, Farmington Hills, MI
Colorado
Perhaps the most standout element of Colorado (or Mountain-style) pizza is the bread-like texture on the twisted edge of the crust. The crust’s thick ridge resembles the Rocky Mountain vistas where the pizza is found, and the appearance also has logistical purposes — it keeps the load of cheese, sauce and toppings contained within the pie. Colorado pizza is not quite as hearty as Chicago’s deep dish pies, but it does provide heft and as such, it is typically sold by the pound. Where to try it: Beau Jo’s, multiple locations in Colorado
California
When chef Wolfgang Puck opened his Beverly Hills restaurant, Spago, in 1982, it quickly birthed “Californian cuisine.” On the menu back then was Puck’s smoked salmon pizza — still considered a pivotal moment in American cuisine 30 years later. The thin, flaky crust replaced the bagel or potato pancake as a base for smoked salmon, creme fraiche, caviar and dill. Where to try it: Spago, Beverly Hills, CA