Nacogdoches: A day trip to the oldest town in Texas
Published 3:34 pm Thursday, March 4, 2021
- Lily pads in a small pond along an aboretum trail Thursday, June 27, 2013 at Stephen F. Austin State University. (Les Hassell/News-Journal Photo)
An hour and a half from Tyler and Longview lies the oldest town in Texas — Nacogdoches.
The city in between two creeks, the city of many firsts, the garden capital of Texas, Nacogdoches sees thousands of tourists each year. Many of those are people who have heard of the city but have never had the chance to visit. When they finally do, it’s a place they say they have to return to again.
The town of more than 33,000 residents is known for its tall trees, miles of nature trails, historical sites and locally owned businesses.
When visitors first enter the city, they will see tall trees, pine cones on the floor, art murals, the beautiful campus of Stephen F. Austin State University and the historic architecture.
With robust offerings of sites, restaurants and stays, the city encourages not only first-time visitors but those who want to come time after time.
“I think what (visitors) will take away are really deeply rooted memories,” said Sherry Morgan, executive director of the Nacogdoches Convention and Visitors Bureau. “What I think is most surprising is what they’ll leave behind. They’ll leave behind their heart. We get so many people that come once and that is the first of many times. Rarely do we have people that come once, mark it off a list and never come back. I think it’s not so much what they take away, but what they leave here to come back to find again.”
TO SEE AND DO
To begin exploring Nacogdoches, start at the Charles Bright Visitors Center, where brochures, history and information can be found in one place.
The visitor center doubles as a museum that features history from of Nacogdoches. The visitor center and museum sees an average of 1,000 to 1,200 walk-in guests per month, which averages to about 13,000 to 14,000 people per year.
Morgan recalled a historian from Stephen F. Austin State University who said the pine curtain inhibited Nacogdoches from growing. In doing so, it actually preserved the community.
“Based on our history and our location, Nacogdoches should be today what we see Houston, Dallas and San Antonio being, because of commerce that came through here. It struck me then and it’s only proven to be true. It was really a hedge of protection,” Morgan said. “What it did was preserve the very best of us so that we are this throwback to a kinder, simpler, gentler time that so many people have fond memories of. It’s a throwback to a bygone era.”
After touring the visitors’ bureau, stop to admire the architecture and many artistic murals in downtown Nacogdoches. If visiting downtown on a Wednesday or a Saturday morning, pop in to the Nacogdoches Farmer’s Market at 107 Pearl St. where more than 45 vendors showcase a variety of items, such as homemade candles, jewelry, soaps, baked goods, local organic beef, free-range eggs and handcrafted wood-craft items.
For those who enjoy the outdoors, Lake Nacogdoches is a 2,212-acre lake home to some of the best bass fishing in Texas. The lake also is home to bluegill and redear sunfish. Lake Nacogdoches, located at 127925 S. FM 225, also features a swimming area, picnic tables and a three-acre park. Meanwhile, the nearby 5.89-mile Lantana Creek Trail offers opportunities for birdwatching as well as taking in stunning views. The trail connects to Pecan Park, where many residents enjoy playing disc golf.
“We have a decent amount of Disc Golf. There’s a community for that. There’s all these little micro communities, like geocaching, disc golf, the rock painting, there’s all these cool things going on in the background,” said Ashley Morgan, creative content director at the Nacogdoches Convention and Visitors Bureau. “A person that’s lived here might never notice, but visitors notice.”
The SFA Mast Arboretum, Ruby M. Mize Azalea Garden and the Nacogdoches County Master Gardeners Demonstration Garden are must-sees while in “Nac.” For those interested in history, a visit to the Stone Fort Museum at the SFA campus is a must-do. The museum, which is one of the oldest buildings in Texas, features information about the 1936 Texas Centennial, Historic Houses, The Republic of Texas and more.
Nacogdoches visitors also can experience Texas’ largest barn quilt trail. There are more than 250 barn quilts in Nacogdoches County. For great views, head to the city’s Scenic Overlook on Texas 7 for stunning views and try to spot the barn quilts from the road.
The Oak Grove Cemetery is a popular historic sight. Also known as one of the most famous cemeteries in Texas, the Oak Grove Cemetery is the resting place of four signers of the Texas Declaration of Independence, as well as other legendary Texans. One of the most famous icons buried at the cemetery is Thomas Jefferson Rusk.
Near the Oak Grove Cemetery, visitors will find Fortney Home at 310 N. Mound St. Considered a gem of Nacogdoches, Fortney Home is an eclectic furnishing store with a diverse option of home items. Designed by architect Diedrich Ruffus, the Fortney Home features collections of items on two floors and in 14 rooms.
“A lot of our antique shops have these pieces from the 50’s, 60’s, 70’s, from that era and that style of design, just sitting out and just waiting for true collectors that are starting to hear about us as the Fredonia becomes more popular because that’s the design of their remodel,” Sherry Morgan said. “That’s kind of a hidden secret about Nacogdoches is that we’re this collection where people can still find authentic and genuine pieces of mid-century modern antiques.”
A visit to Nacogdoches wouldn’t be complete without stopping at Millard’s Crossing, a charming, reconstructed historic village. The village comprises a broad sampling of 19th century East Texas architecture from simple log cabins to Victorian homes, and is designed to connect present generations to the past.
TO EAT
The oldest town in Texas offers a wide variety of restaurants, certain to please any palate.
Family owned restaurants Dolli’s Diner and First City Cafe, each located in the downtown area, are breakfast hotspots. At Dolli’s Diner, visitors will be surrounded by local art as they enjoy breakfast or brunch. Patrons won’t go wrong with the plate that Dolli’s describes as it’s most sold. That’s the No. 2 breakfast special, which includes two eggs, two pancakes, two pieces of bacon and coffee.
Meanwhile, First City Cafe is inside the newly renovated Fredonia Hotel near downtown. The cafe is known for its mid-century modern interior, which is furnished with white tabletops and plush white leather chairs. Named after the city of Nacogdoches, First City Cafe is known for its Lumberjack Breakfast which features bacon, sausage, two eggs, two pancakes, a biscuit and home fries. For other meals, The Republic Burger and the Shrimp and Grits are popular.
Also in the Fredonia Hotel, Nine Flags Bar and Grill is a great spot for drinks. Each alcoholic beverage represents one of the Nine Flags that have flown over Nacogdoches. For a fine-dining dinner experience, visit the Republic Steakhouse, where reservations are recommended.
For a mid-day wine break or brunch, the Cottage Wine Bar is a hidden backyard set up for a relaxing food and wine experience. The Cottage Wine Bar offers salads and soups, charcuterie boards, crepes and deserts.
“It’s a little cottage and he’s (owner Benjamin Sullivan) got this cute little garden area, there’s string lights, a gazebo, a fountain, multiple fire pits with lawn chairs around them, and he’s just made this gorgeous little environment,” Ashley Morgan said.
For casual dining, try Clear Springs Restaurant. For Italian food in a historic setting, visit Auntie Pasta’s Italian Restaurant. For a good chicken-fried steak or southern cooking, consider Butcher Boy’s, a Nacogdoches staple since 1977. For a good hamburger, consider NacBurger and for barbecue, consider Brendyn’s BBQ which has been featured in “Texas Monthly.”
“He does amazing brisket, he’s been featured in ‘Texas Monthly’ before, he recently added mac and cheese to the menu,” Ashley Morgan said. “He actually features brownies in his store that are made by Blue Horse Bakery, which is just around the corner and they’re so good.”
If visiting Nac with friends or with four-legged, furry friends, check out Front Porch Distillery, which features live music on weekends and invites a variety of food trucks to its location. The distillery offers a tasting room that features mixed drinks and signature spirits.
Nacogdoches’ first microbrewery, The Fredonia Brewery, is also a local hotspot. Child-friendly and pet-friendly, the brewery features a 15 barrel brew house and four 30-barrel fermenters, in which beers and ales are made. The brewery also offers tours of brewhouse equipment and the process of making beer. Popular brews include Banita Blonde, 9 Flags Amber, Bull Pine Pale, Angry Axe IPA and the Pine Cove Porter.
TO STAY
For those planning an overnight trip to Nacogdoches, a stay at the Fredonia Hotel and Convention Center is in order. The city’s iconic Fredonia Hotel first opened its doors in April 1955. It was built around an ancient Catalpa tree, which later had to be cut down because of rot. The hotel paid homage to the tree by replacing it with a handmade iron tree in the atrium.
The Fredonia Hotel features 109 rooms, including single rooms, suites, cabana rooms and terrace rooms. The hotel recently underwent a renovation, which transformed it into a unique historic destination. Over the years, the hotel has been visited by famous guests including Farrah Fawcett, Amy Schumer, Elvis Presley and Colonel Sanders. Owned and operated by Nacogdoches residents, the hotel said it strives to offer a “luxury meets local” experience.
For a traditional hotel stay, check out the Hampton Inn & Suites in Nacogdoches or the Mockingbird Suites, a Victorian home with rentable rooms in downtown Nac.
For those who travel in a RV, Nacogdoches offers many RV parks including at Camp Tonkawa Springs. Located deep in the Piney Woods of East Texas, Camp Tonkawa Springs features a rock-lined, spring fed pond, picnic areas, horseshoe and volleyball courts, covered pavilions and recreation halls.