Customers wait for the order at a table overlooking the outdoor deck at Taste of Italy at Lake Hawkins on Wednesday, Aug. 5, 2015, in Hawkins. Andrew D. Brosig/Tyler Morning Telegraph

LAKE HAWKINS – For an authentic taste of Italy, head to Hawkins, turn west at the stoplight and follow the signs into the woods.

Along the way, roll down the windows, soak up the lakeside breeze and savor the fresh piney smell of swaying trees towering overhead.

Don’t get too relaxed, however – it’s easy to miss the turn.

Texas transplants Jimmy and Rema Meta are accustomed to hungry diners doubling back for their popular Taste of Italy by the Lake restaurant.

Their lakeside foodie getaway features fresh “made from scratch” delicacies, made from family recipes and served with an eye-popping view of shimmering waves.

“Food is my passion,” Meta said with an accent that’s distinctly not East Texan. “It’s a beautiful setting. We have customers who drive 80, 90 miles to eat here. That makes me feel good. We want people to be comfortable.”

She added, “We try to do a good job. Everything here is fresh, nothing frozen, nothing microwaved … everything is cooked in order.”

The couple, married 27 years, hails from the republic of Macedonia near Greece, and moved to the United States almost two decades ago to start a new life.

They found happiness in the Lone Star State, eventually settling in Mineola to raise a family and enjoy the simple pleasures of small town living.

“We love Texas, it’s a very nice state,” Mrs. Meta said with a grin. “I even say, ‘Y’all come back.'”

The newcomers started a small downtown restaurant, introducing new recipes to an audience accustomed to southern cooking techniques: deep fried, drenched in gravy.

Customers loved the fresh menu choices and flocked in for more.

As the popularity grew, the already snug dining space seemed to shrink.

That’s when one of their customers, a realtor from Hawkins, invited them to check out a vacant, much larger lakefront restaurant for sale in her area, several miles to the east.

The couple had two big questions: What does it cost, and where is Hawkins?

Fears melted as they pulled into the driveway.

“We loved it,” Mrs. Meta said.

Within weeks, the couple collected the keys to their own piece of the American dream, complete with a view, especially in the moonlight.

Eight years later, business continues to boom.

“We have lots of customers from the Dallas area and they love it,” Mrs. Meta said. “It’s a beautiful, relaxing location in the middle of nowhere. You have the breeze, the birds singing. To have a glass of wine out here, you can’t beat it.”

Meta, a professional cook for more than 30 years, is the culinary mastermind, assisted by a small staff of professionals who know their way around a kitchen.

“I love what I do,” Meta said. “This is my dream, to be at the lake in a beautiful area.”

The restaurant serves chicken, seafood, veal, pizza and pasta and unique dishes that don’t involve a deep fryer.

“We don’t have chicken fried steak,” Mrs. Meta said. “People ask, but we don’t have it.”

The eatery doesn’t serve wine either, but customers can bring their own.

There’s music on Friday and Saturday nights and a long wait for those who forgot to phone in a reservation.

The Metas enjoy a devoted following, serving between 300 and 400 nightly during the busy times.

Taste of Italy by the Lake is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday; and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. The restaurant closes on Mondays.

Real estate agent Paulette Wilson, of Hawkins Realty, is a fan of the spaghetti, pizza and lasagna. She said the restaurant is a positive addition for the entire area.

“We worked diligently to get them here,” she said. “They are just fantastic people. They’ve worked so hard, never taking any time off. It’s taken a long time, and I know it’s been difficult, but things have gotten better and better. On Fridays and Saturday nights, it’s almost standing room only.”

The couple is grateful to be living out their dreams on a well-traveled road, off the beaten path.

“Our children have opportunities in this country,” Mrs. Meta said. “If they work hard, they can be somebody.”