Craig LeHoullier is in his element among the potted vegetable jungle in his North Raleigh, N.C., driveway on July 23, 2015. LeHoullier, known as the N.C. Tomato Man, has been spreading his heirloom tomato gospel for years, including varieties such as Mexican Midget and Lillian's Yellow. (Juli Leonard/Raleigh News & Observer/TNS)

Andrea Weigl, Tribune News Service

Craig LeHoullier is in his element among the potted vegetable jungle in his North Raleigh, N.C. driveway.

Each tomato in LeHoullier’s hands sparks a story: the Speckled Roman with not just stripes but “tiger stripes,” the Dester tomato, which is “one of the best tomatoes I’ve ever eaten,” the Viva Lindsey Kentucky Heirloom that was given as a wedding present. “To think of a tomato variety as a wedding present is really something,” LeHoullier said.

LeHoullier, known as the N.C. Tomato Man, has been spreading his heirloom tomato gospel for years. He’s responsible for naming and saving the Cherokee Purple tomato, as well as promoting other heirloom varieties, such as Mexican Midget and Lillian’s Yellow Heirloom, and spearheading an effort to develop dozens of dwarf tomato varieties.

LeHoullier is also well-known for his annual Tomatopalooza tomato tasting events, which he organized in the area for a decade.

In the height of tomato season, it seemed appropriate to seek advice and recipe suggestions from LeHoullier on the best way to use and preserve this summer’s tomato bounty.

Late last year, LeHoullier, 59, turned his three decades’ worth of gardening and seed-saving experience into a book, “Epic Tomatoes.” The gardening book from Storey Publishing has gone into a second printing. LeHoullier has been traveling the country on a book tour, speaking at a Seed Savers Exchange conference and other gardener gatherings.

Standing in his driveway, holding a basket full of red, purple, pink and green tomatoes, LeHoullier says he hopes his efforts do more than bring in a bountiful crop.

“I grow a pretty cool garden,” LeHoullier said. “I’d be happy if I can grow some future gardeners.

 

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ANNA’S SPAGHETTI

1 pound (about 3 1/2 cups) Sungold or Black Cherry tomatoes

2 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

1/3 cup whole almonds, lightly toasted

20 large fresh basil leaves

1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt or kosher salt

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or more to taste

1 pound spaghetti

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana Padano

Rinse the cherry tomatoes and basil leaves and pat them dry.

Drop the tomatoes into the blender jar or food processor bowl followed by garlic, almonds, basil leaves, red pepper flakes and salt. Blend for a minute or more to a fine puree; scrape down the bowl and blend again if any large bits or pieces have survived. With the machine still running, pour in the olive oil in a steady stream, emulsifying the puree into a thick pesto. (You can add more depending upon how thick you like pesto.) Taste and adjust seasoning. (If you’re going dress the pasta within a couple of hours, leave the pesto at room temperature. Refrigerate if you’ll use it within two days, but let it return to room temperature before cooking the pasta.) To cook the spaghetti, heat 6 quarts of water to the boil in the large pot. Scrape all the pesto into a big warm bowl. Cook the spaghetti al dente, lift it from the cooking pot, drain briefly, and drop onto the pesto. Toss quickly to coat the spaghetti, sprinkle the cheese all over, and toss again. Serve immediately in warm bowls. 3 to 4 servings.

Adapted by Craig LeHoullier from a Lidia Bastianich recipe.

 

 

CUSTOM-COLORED GAZPACHO

12 heirloom tomatoes

1 leek or sweet onion, peeled

1 cucumber

1 sweet pepper — stem, ribs and seeds removed

2 tablespoons salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup sherry vinegar

12 basil leaves

Cherry tomatoes, halved, for garnish

Extra virgin olive oil, for garnish

Dice tomatoes, onion, cucumber and pepper and combine in a large bowl. Add salt, pepper and vinegar to the vegetable mixture and let marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Add basil and puree in a food processor or blender. Serve slightly chilled, with some colorful cherry tomatoes and a swirl of extra virgin olive oil. 6-8 servings.

From “Epic Tomatoes: How to Select and Grow the Best Varieties of All Time,” by Craig LeHoullier (Storey Publishing, 2015).

 

FARRO VEGETARIAN JAMBALAYA

Adapted by Craig LeHoullier from an Emeril Lagasse recipe.

3 cups vegetable stock

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large sweet onion, peeled, diced

1 large sweet bell pepper, stems, ribs and seeds removed, diced

3 stalks celery, trimmed and diced

2 carrots, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1 cup whole grain farro (or spelt), picked over for impurities and rinsed

4 cups (1 quart) diced tomatoes

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon chile powder

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 large zucchini, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1 cup frozen peas

1 cup frozen corn kernels

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

Grated Parmesan cheese, to taste

In a medium saucepan, bring the vegetable stock to a simmer. Lower the heat to keep warm. In a medium pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions, pepper, celery and carrots and cook until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add farro to the pan and cook, stirring, until the faro is toasted and coated with oil, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaf and thyme, and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add 2 cups of the warm stock, salt, black pepper, chile powder and cayenne, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring, until the liquid is absorbed. Continue adding the stock, 2 cups at a time, as the previous addition is absorbed, cooking and stirring. After last 2 cups are added, add zucchini, peas and corn. Keep stirring until all the stock is absorbed and the grains are plump and tender. Remove from the heat and discard the bay leaf. Stir in the parsley and adjust the seasoning, to taste. Serve immediately with Parmesan cheese. 6 servings.

Adapted by Craig LeHoullier from an Emeril Lagasse recipe.