White Pass & Yukon Railway offers breathtaking views
Published 8:00 am Thursday, November 1, 2018
- The Yukon region famous for its beautiful lakes. (Ann Bush/Lifestyles Magazine)
After my husband and I booked a cruise up the coast of Alaska and Canada, we pored through travel guides about the day trips available for passengers. A brochure on the Yukon territory of Canada caught our attention. Trusting the catchy headline “Re-live the Gold Rush on the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway,” we booked a trip on the heritage train.
We chose the 40-mile White Pass excursion that starts in Skagway, Alaska, and climbs 4,501 feet from sea level to the summit of White Pass in Carcross, Canada.
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The RIDE
The trip up the mountain in the vintage passenger coaches offers breathtaking views of mountains, gorges, waterfalls, glaciers and trestles. Attractions include Bridal Veil Falls, Inspiration Point and Dead Horse Gulch.
The narrow-track gauge was built on the edge of tree-covered mountains and in many spots seems to narrowly miss falling off the side. Views downward to the bottom of steep canyons make for a spectacular ride.
The origin of the railroad dates to 1896, when George Carmack and his two Canadian First Peoples companions, Skookum Jim and Dawson Charlie, discovered a few flakes of gold in the region. Those few flakes set off a stampede for riches — the Klondike Gold Rush.
By this time, plans had been launched to build a railroad that would begin at Skagway and extend miles into the Yukon interior providing safe passage through the rugged mountains.
During World War II, the U.S. Army took control of the railroad and used it to transport materials for its Alaskan Highway construction project. About 10 years later, new owners used the railroad to provide access to lead and zinc mines.
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Restored as a heritage railway in 1988, tourists from cruise ships are its new cargo. The railroad uses vintage parlor cars and newer cars that accommodate passengers with special needs.
Today, the railroad is promoted as “the scenic railway of the world” and a marvel of engineering that symbolizes Yukon’s triumph over challenge.
Carcross, Canada
The ride ended in Carcross, which sits at the spot where for centuries caribou crossed a valley. The population grew when people moved there to have better access to the railroad and Bennett Lake.
A walking tour through the town of 300 took us past totem poles, rustic log cabins, 4-foot tall wrought iron mosquitoes, carved wooden bears and a 120-year-old rusty red railway swing bridge whose midsection pivots on a central axis.
The Caribou Hotel in Carcross is one of the oldest buildings in the region. The ghost of Bessie Gideon, a previous owner, is said to roam on the third floor. The hotel also is known for Polly, a parrot who entertained guests for 54 years with his rendition of “Springtime in the Rockies.”
The home that Skookum Jim built in 1899 is the site of a mural that features cherry red paint and black and blue images of Yukon animals. The mural was designed by Tlinit artist Keigh Wolfe Smarch.
Carcross also is home to The Barracks, a log building built in 1921 that once was used by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police and now houses arts and crafts selections by local artisans.
We finished the day on a bus ride along the Klondike Highway back to Skagway. During a stop at Bove Island Lookout, we took time to enjoy the sun shining on the aspens surrounding Tagish Lake and Bove Island.
If You Go
The White Pass & Yukon Route railroad operates from May 1 through Sept. The website for the railway is www.wpyr.com . A good website for Carcross and the Yukon is www.yukoncommunities.yk.ca/carcross.
Ann Bush is freelance writer and photographer based in East Texas.