Keep Moles From Becoming Scourge Of Landscape
Keith Hansen
I've written about controlling moles several times during the last 15 years since moving to a home site occupied by several moles. I read the literature, tried various treatments, and of course, trapped - mostly unsuccessfully and half-heartedly. Previous years I would catch maybe up to four a year.
Perhaps I was not diligent enough, or perhaps I was operating under the illusion that these things were just too darn hard to catch.
This year was to be different.
After some heavy rains this spring, I was walking on my lot when I spied a run. Of course, there were lots of runs on my lot, but this one caught my eye. The raised ridge was bigger, and wider, and straighter than usual. I think I had an "Ah ha" moment, and I just knew I would catch one in that run. I set my harpoon trap, and in a few hours, had my first mole of the year.
With a boost in my confidence by the first catch, I re-set the trap in the same run. It's always a good idea to keep trapping in a major run, because they are often used by other moles in the area. In the meantime, I started looking for other places to set the trap in case this one didn't produce any more moles.
Perhaps I was not diligent enough, or perhaps I was operating under the illusion that these things were just too darn hard to catch.
This year was to be different.
After some heavy rains this spring, I was walking on my lot when I spied a run. Of course, there were lots of runs on my lot, but this one caught my eye. The raised ridge was bigger, and wider, and straighter than usual. I think I had an "Ah ha" moment, and I just knew I would catch one in that run. I set my harpoon trap, and in a few hours, had my first mole of the year.
With a boost in my confidence by the first catch, I re-set the trap in the same run. It's always a good idea to keep trapping in a major run, because they are often used by other moles in the area. In the meantime, I started looking for other places to set the trap in case this one didn't produce any more moles.
Two-Jawed Mole Trap
In another part of my yard, I have an area where mole runs show up every year - along my driveway, sidewalk and flower bed border. I moved the trap to this spot, and in 2 days had 2 moles in the same spot. My confidence was building.
Then the mole mounds began appearing. Lots of them! Moles make medium to large blobs of dirt - mounds with no pattern. Gopher mounds will have a typical indention on one side.
About 20 years ago, I read an article about a guy in Ohio who called himself the Moleman. Not knowing if he was still around, I checked the Web and sure enough, he has a great site devoted to moles.
The Moleman recommends both the harpoon trap and a two-jawed trap, which springs closed when a mole trips the trigger. This trap is recommended for deeper runs, and I have had very good success using this trap on tunnels 5 to 12 inches deep.
During the dry spell this late summer, I did not catch many moles, since their feeding activity was deeper in the soil, and surface runs did not show up very often.
Up to now, I have caught 15 moles in my yard. More mounds have recently popped up, so the trapping continues. Below are some tips that will increase your trapping success rate.
The first key to trapping is to locate a run which is used frequently. When you see a fresh runway, do not disturb it except for collapsing it with your foot in one spot only. Come back later in the day or the next morning to see if the depressed soil has been lifted. If so, then you know the mole is currently using that runway and set the trap there.
Runs which travel under or along side sidewalks, drives or around foundations may be good places to locate a trap. Runs in these locations are regularly used.
Once you locate an active runway, depress the soil so it blocks the tunnel. Do this in only one spot so as to not arouse the mole's suspicion or throw it off course. The plug should be in a straightaway section so the mole will continue passing through the trap instead of bending around it.
Set the trap and place the trigger pan so it just rests on the soil plug.
If you are working with a deeper run, dig away enough soil so the top of the soil plug is just above the tunnel. That way the pan will rest just above the top of the blocked runway.
There are three commonly available types of mole traps: the harpoon, the choker loop and the scissor trap. All three work on the same principle, although they kill moles in different ways.
Many prefer the harpoon trap since it is a little easier to set, although the strong spring still requires a lot of strength to set. The scissors trap works well with deeper tunnels.
When setting any of the traps, make sure the legs, jaws or loops are straddling the runway. If moles encounter any part of the trap, they will avoid it, or block the trap with a plug of soil.
A plastic bucket can be placed upside down over the trap to keep children and pets from disturbing the trap.
Persistence is the key to catching moles. Buy a couple of traps, keep both of them set in active runs. If a trap doesn't spring in one location after 24 hours, check and make sure the mole didn't tunnel under the trap without setting off the trigger. If nothing is happening in that run after a couple of days, move the trap to another active tunnel.
If you catch one, reset the trap in the same location. Even though moles lead solitary lives, other moles can use the same runs.
Stick with trapping and stick with the program. Don't give up - you'll eventually perfect your trapping technique and gain the upper hand.
I have written in my Blog about my experiences this year trapping moles, and I'll be speaking on trapping moles at the East Texas Turfgrass Conference in Overton on Feb. 7.
I also have a page on my website listing several good mole Web sites, including the "Moleman." - EastTexasGardening.tamu.edu/homegardening/moles.html
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://EastTexasGardening.tamu.edu His Blog is http://tceblogs.tamu.edu/mt/etg Texas Cooperative Extension educational programs are open to all individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
Then the mole mounds began appearing. Lots of them! Moles make medium to large blobs of dirt - mounds with no pattern. Gopher mounds will have a typical indention on one side.
About 20 years ago, I read an article about a guy in Ohio who called himself the Moleman. Not knowing if he was still around, I checked the Web and sure enough, he has a great site devoted to moles.
The Moleman recommends both the harpoon trap and a two-jawed trap, which springs closed when a mole trips the trigger. This trap is recommended for deeper runs, and I have had very good success using this trap on tunnels 5 to 12 inches deep.
During the dry spell this late summer, I did not catch many moles, since their feeding activity was deeper in the soil, and surface runs did not show up very often.
Up to now, I have caught 15 moles in my yard. More mounds have recently popped up, so the trapping continues. Below are some tips that will increase your trapping success rate.
The first key to trapping is to locate a run which is used frequently. When you see a fresh runway, do not disturb it except for collapsing it with your foot in one spot only. Come back later in the day or the next morning to see if the depressed soil has been lifted. If so, then you know the mole is currently using that runway and set the trap there.
Runs which travel under or along side sidewalks, drives or around foundations may be good places to locate a trap. Runs in these locations are regularly used.
Once you locate an active runway, depress the soil so it blocks the tunnel. Do this in only one spot so as to not arouse the mole's suspicion or throw it off course. The plug should be in a straightaway section so the mole will continue passing through the trap instead of bending around it.
Set the trap and place the trigger pan so it just rests on the soil plug.
If you are working with a deeper run, dig away enough soil so the top of the soil plug is just above the tunnel. That way the pan will rest just above the top of the blocked runway.
There are three commonly available types of mole traps: the harpoon, the choker loop and the scissor trap. All three work on the same principle, although they kill moles in different ways.
Many prefer the harpoon trap since it is a little easier to set, although the strong spring still requires a lot of strength to set. The scissors trap works well with deeper tunnels.
When setting any of the traps, make sure the legs, jaws or loops are straddling the runway. If moles encounter any part of the trap, they will avoid it, or block the trap with a plug of soil.
A plastic bucket can be placed upside down over the trap to keep children and pets from disturbing the trap.
Persistence is the key to catching moles. Buy a couple of traps, keep both of them set in active runs. If a trap doesn't spring in one location after 24 hours, check and make sure the mole didn't tunnel under the trap without setting off the trigger. If nothing is happening in that run after a couple of days, move the trap to another active tunnel.
If you catch one, reset the trap in the same location. Even though moles lead solitary lives, other moles can use the same runs.
Stick with trapping and stick with the program. Don't give up - you'll eventually perfect your trapping technique and gain the upper hand.
I have written in my Blog about my experiences this year trapping moles, and I'll be speaking on trapping moles at the East Texas Turfgrass Conference in Overton on Feb. 7.
I also have a page on my website listing several good mole Web sites, including the "Moleman." - EastTexasGardening.tamu.edu/homegardening/moles.html
Keith Hansen is Smith County Horticulturist with Texas Cooperative Extension. His web page is http://EastTexasGardening.tamu.edu His Blog is http://tceblogs.tamu.edu/mt/etg Texas Cooperative Extension educational programs are open to all individuals without regard to race, color, sex, disability, religion, age or national origin.
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