Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Neil Sperry's Mailbag

Posted on
Thursday, August 30, 2007
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Healthy Agapanthus Could Use More Sun
DEAR NEIL: My healthy looking agapanthus plants are 5 years old and they have not bloomed yet. They are both the big and small varieties. They get sun from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Any suggestions, other than moving to California?

I have lived several places in Texas and my experiences have always been the same as yours. I've also seen them in Southern California and we can only envy their performance there. They do well for a few South Texas gardeners, more so nearer the coast. It sounds like you are doing things correctly. I would try moving a few of them to a spot that gets full morning sun with shade during the hottest part of the afternoon. That's not much help but maybe it will help to know that others have the same problems. Gardeners in the northern two-thirds of Texas are likely to lose them entirely in winter cold spells. You'll probably get the cooling blue color more easily from plants like plumbago, fan flower, Salvia "Victoria'' and Katie's dwarf ruellia among others.


DEAR NEIL: My mother gave me a wisteria plant she started south of Houston. It has grown and spread into a cedar tree that's it's planted under. But, no blooms. What can I add to the soil?

The exact cause of its failure to bloom will be hard to pinpoint, but it definitely is not because of anything you need to add to the soil other than possibly extra water to make up for what is being sucked out by the cedar tree. Wisterias need full sunlight to bloom. If its leaves extend beyond the canopy of the cedar then you'll just need to be patient. That probably isn't the best place to have it growing if for no other reason than it will choke out the tree as it continues to grow.


DEAR NEIL: I would like to spray Kocide 101 to help control ball moss in my oak trees at our ranch in Central Texas. What time of year is best?

I did a quick Web search in the Texas A&M horticulture site and it suggests the application be made between February and mid-May. Further, it says that the spray will reach its maximum effectiveness only following rainfall. There is a good bit more information in the posting by Dr. Jerral Johnson, retired from the Texas Cooperative Extension.



DEAR NEIL: How are cottonless cottonwoods started? I like the tree and need its fast growth.

They are among the very few types of trees that are easily rooted from cuttings. Late winter, just before bud break is the best time. I'm compelled to tell you that all cottonwoods do have several inherent problems.

Other trees are better landscaping investments. However, for someone who really wants a cottonwood, these are your best option.


DEAR NEIL: You mentioned recently that bagworms don't come out of trees and crawl around on other surfaces, but my place is loaded with them. They're covering the garage and my other plants. They are even in the house. I cut a few webs out of the trees and the worms are identical to those I see all over the place. This is an invasion. What can I use to kill these bagworms?

The larvae that you are seeing are called webworms. They attack trees such as pecans, mulberries, persimmons, box elders and catalpas among many others. They form large and unsightly webs and strip the foliage bare.

They are not going to kill your trees, however. They just make them look bad, plus, as you mention, they're all over everything. Sprays are ineffective on these while they're in the trees. The best means of controlling them is with a long-handled pole pruner extended to 16 or 24 feet and used just as they become visible. On lower surfaces you can use biological worm spray (B.t.) The bagworms I was referring to are in cases, or bags, about the size of your little finger. They attack cone-bearing plants such as junipers and arborvitae and can actually kill them if they strip off all the needles.

They are never seen without their bags. Their prime time is late spring into early summer. Almost any general-purpose insecticide will control them if it's applied while they are still actively feeding.


DEAR NEIL: What can I use to eliminate white flies in my privet hedge? They just about choke me when I trim it.

Use a systemic insecticide such as acephate (formerly sold as Orthene). They are tenacious pests. You'll probably have to treat several times on 10- to 15-day intervals during the balance of the summer and early fall.



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